Monday, March 25, 2013

The Way We Travel

Terri thought it might be interesting to tell others the how and why of our traveling, since we seem to approach things a little differently. So, this blog post is mostly Terri with a little bit of me.

Terri at the miradouro

It occurred to me, while relaxing in our Lisbon apartment on a rainy afternoon, that the way we travel may seem quite odd to most people.

After checking out every travel book available at the library for a particular destination, and making a rough list of things to do, the goal is not scratching those 'must-see' tourist attractions off the bucket list. Many times, the most important and famous monuments, like the Rialto Bridge in Venice, the Leaning Tower in Pisa, and the Trevi Fountain in Rome, for example, wind up being the least memorable experiences. They are crowded with tourists and kitschy souvenir kiosks. They aren't real. Walking around Venice at night is real -- you have this quiet magical place to yourself after all the day-trippers have left.

It's important to stay long enough to get a sense of place, to know a city and figure out how to get around via public transportation. (Deciphering bus and subway and tram schedules and fares and how they interconnect is far from easy, but being able to use the public transportation system is essential for understanding a city.) We aren't early risers, so we take our time and usually head out to explore around 11 a.m. With a detailed map and usually the Rick Steves and Eyewitness travel books, we start out on foot and walk around and take in the sights. Then stop somewhere for lunch, depending on where we end up. Then head in a different direction, exploring a different neighborhood, and so on. The next day, figure out how to ride the bus/subway, go a little further and get home in time for dinner at a neighborhood restaurant. Then another neighborhood, church, museum. And so on. There's no time for day trips to nearby cities -- that comes later, once you have a sense of place. What's left undone on your list becomes the starting point for the next trip. By the third trip, we know the city pretty well and venture out even further, with day trips to nearby places.

I realize that our independent style of traveling is quite different -- by being perfectly content walking around the neighborhood, eating lunch at the restaurant across the street, going to the grocery store, buying pastries at the bakery, buying a bus pass from the amiable guy in the shop next door, and sitting at scenic overlooks and taking in the view. And when it starts raining, going back to the apartment to listen to fado and to plan the next day, and maybe even the next trip to a new city.

I'll add a few things. We've traveled a lot but haven't been to that many places: UK, only London, once; France, only Paris, twice; Spain, only Madrid twice and Barcelona once; but Italy nine times, month-long escapes to Buenos Aires six times, and Portugal three times and planning more. We always go in the off-season. We don't buy travel books, we borrow them from the library. We plan ahead but often make last minute changes depending on weather, our mood, and new information. We go back to places we like but try to add at least one new destination every year. We prefer apartments to hotel rooms. We can't hide the fact that we're tourists but we work very hard to be as unobtrusive as possible.

And that's the way we travel.

Saturday, March 9, 2013

Mostly by Bus

Our trip so far has been going to different parts of Lisbon and exploring. To get around, we've gone on some very long bus rides. I love very long bus rides, especially if I am lucky enough to get a seat. Figuring out stops and transfers can be challenging, but fortunately I am married to someone highly skilled in deciphering bus maps and routes. We always end up some place interesting.

We've eaten frango assado (roasted chicken) two days in a row and had at least one pastel de nata per day.

Today will be like the other days, I think, except we may not have frango assado. While we're out and about, here's some snaps to look at: Terri and Mike in Lisbon, 2013 edition. For your convenience, Flickr makes it easy to watch a slideshow of our trip so far.

Sunday, March 3, 2013

March means Lisbon

A few weeks ago, I flippantly suggested that we go to Lisbon for lunch. We laughed at my silliness but then looked at each other and asked, why not? After all, as I've written before, lunch in Portugal is a wonderful thing. The silly idea became a serious plan and within a few days we had reserved air tickets and wired a deposit on an apartment in Largo da Graça.

So, tomorrow we're off, DFW to Madrid, then Madrid to Lisbon. By late Tuesday afternoon we should be walking to the Pingo Doce supermarket to pick up a few necessities after which will come the difficult task of deciding where to eat.

This will be the third March in a row we've visited Lisbon. Of course we'll eat lunch and I'll have a custard or three, and we hope to see our dear friends Ana and Manny. And we have a long list of things to do and places to see.

Until we have a chance to settle in and post some snaps, here's a photo from our 2011 trip, a view from the miradouro (scenic overlook) around the corner from our apartment.

Lisbon